Unlike some of the other personages we’ve discussed on this site, Sylvia Pankhurst (1882-1960) probably needs little introduction. Daughter of Emmeline, sister of Christabel and Adela, Sylvia was an artist, a suffragist, a political radical, and deeply involved in anti-fascist and anti-colonial movements between the wars. She was also interested in lace and lacemakers, as we learnt from Joan Ashworth at a recent conference. (Joan is making a film called Locating Sylvia Pankhurst.) For Sylvia, the concerns of working women should have been at the heart of the women’s suffrage campaign, a position that led to a split with her mother Emmeline and sister Christabel, and her expulsion in 1914 from the Women’s Social and Political Union. She had already demonstrated her interest in women’s work in 1907, when she toured England and Scotland, drawing and interviewing women employed in the potteries, boot and shoe manufacture, the coal industry, chain-making, herring-gutting, and agricultural activities. She may have envisaged that this would lead to a full-length book, but this never came to fruition; instead articles appeared in magazines, including an illustrated article on ‘Women Workers of England’ in the London Magazine (1908).
It is possible that she had considered including pillow-lace makers in this project. Domestic women workers were the object of concerted social and philanthropic campaigning in the first decade of the twentieth century, and in these campaigns the fate of the women chain-makers of Cradley Heath was repeatedly linked to that of lacemakers in England and elsewhere. The same period also witnessed a moderately successful attempt to revive the lace industry and Emily Hobhouse, a campaigner on behalf of Boer civilian prisoners in South Africa, obviously thought Sylvia knew about this because she asked her (c. 1903-4) for lace patterns. However, no pictures or notes of interviews with lacemakers survive from this period.
The article below was written later, probably around 1929. Whether it was ever published I have been unable to establish but the typescript appears among her papers now held by the International Institute of Social History, where they are available online. This is not, it has to be said, a ground-breaking piece of journalism. In fact, its entire contents are lifted, sometimes verbatim, from Thomas Wright’s Romance of the Lace Pillow (1919). (The ‘Mrs’ – in fact Mr Harry – Armstrong mentioned at the end of the article also published that book.) We suspect, therefore, that there never was such as person as ‘Lydia Arkwright’, rather she was a character invented on which to hang various elements of lace lore. Certainly we have not been able to identify any lacemaker alive in the 1920s with that name.
Nonetheless, we thought it worth including the article on this site because it illustrates just how widespread concern was for the survival of the handmade lace industry. Sylvia Pankhurst was a socialist, for a while a member of the Communist Party, but her article recapitulates all the themes that aristocratic and clerical patrons of lacemaking used to promote the trade, such as the idealized cottage with birds fluttering around the door and the happy singers in the lace school. In the first half of the twentieth century, the survival of women’s rural craft traditions was a topic that could unite both left and right of the political spectrum, just as did the ‘arts and crafts’ aesthetics which were so important to the lace revival.
Old Lydia Arkwright sits at her cottage door, plying her pins and bobbins, producing on her pillow the choicest of filmy lace, more exquisite than gems. The birds flutter round her, confidently pecking up the crumbs she never omits to scatter for them. Her bobbins are rosewood, well wrought by the bobbin maker from her own trees; but in the press over there is a box of pretty bone bobbins she never uses, cunningly carved and daintily lettered in red and blue, with tender inscriptions, as was the custom of her youth: ‘Lydia Dear’, ‘I wish to wed and love’, ‘My mind is fixed; I cannot range: I love my choice too well to change’.
Her fingers fly, her old voice, quavering, croons the lace-working songs, ‘lace tells’ as they are called:
‘Wallflowers, wallflowers, growing up so high,
All young maidens surely have to die…’
Each tells [sic] calls up some memory of her youth; this one she first heard her first day at the lace school, a tiny wench, only five years old, her poor little face distorted with weeping, for her parents were newly dead of the small-pox. She had a shelter with her father’s old aunt, but must learn to work for her bread. So small she was, and woefully ‘unkid’, as the lace folk termed anyone abjectly miserable as she was. She evoked compassion, for an instant, even in the stern breast of the lace-mistress, petrified as it was by hard toil and grasping for meagre gain.
Rows of little lace girls in clean print dresses, with low necks and short sleeves, their hair in tight plaits, lest any tress should defile the lace were ‘sot’ demurely on stools, on either side of long benches, whereon the lace pillows rested. The mistress, her keen glance comprehending all, sat clutching her cane in long yellow fingers, ready to chastise the smallest fault with a stroke on those little bare necks and arms. She gave the forlorn new-comer some bobbins to ‘halse’, and when her sad tears fell on the sacred thread, forgetting all pity, struck her six times over the head, and rubbed her face on the pins. Poor Lydia proved a diligent pupil, none the less, and as time passed, son [sic. won?] sometimes a good word, and even a little prize from the crabbed old mistress.
The boys, in their smocks, were kept apart from the docile girls; a ‘spunky’ lot they were, getting up to larks and wasting the thread, often playing truant, ‘homesking’ [? illegible] over the fields or ‘scelching’ in the bank by the brook. She remembered Jack Croft, after a stroke of the cane, ran out of the school and flung his pillow down the well! What a to-do there was! No wonder the lace schools charged 4d a week to train a lad, only 2d for a girl.
When the children had grown proficient, they worked ten hours a day for sixpence a week, paid out to them monthly. They had to stick 600 pins per hour, and if they were five pins short at the end of the day, must work another hour. When the short winter days drew in, there was neither gas nor electric light to work by, nor so much as an oil lamp; even candles were short. As many lace makers as possible, often three rings of them, on stools of different heights, sat round a candle-block, with a tall tallow candle burning in the centre and around it inverted flasks fo water, which focussed the little flame of the candle on to the lace cushions. It was a poor gleam at best, and it was a harsh punishment indeed to be kept in to work by it before the usual season. They worked hard to get done before dusk, inciting each other to persevere by an appropriate ‘tell’, one row of children singing:
‘19 miles to the Isle of Wight;
Shall I get there by candle-light?’
The next row replied:
‘Yes, if your fingers are lissom and light,
You’ll get there by candle-light.’
Even in the coldest weather, the lace school was unheated. The only means of keeping warm was to place close to one’s feet, and even under one’s skirts, a ‘fire pot’ of rough earthenware, resembling the scaldino used in Italy, filled each morning with glowing wood-ashes at the baker’s, for the cost of a farthing, and revived occasionally by the bellows. Sometimes there was a cry: ‘I smell burn!’ Somebody’s petticoat was singed!
It was a hard striving existence for the young, and after they were free of the lace school, there was the ‘baby pillow’ at home, on which the children could earn a few pence more.
Yet what days they were for mirth and jest! If a girl ran short of pins, she would go round the room with a snatch of song:
‘Polly or Betsy, a pin for the poor!
Give me a pin and I’ll ask for no more.’
On hot summer days they were allowed to take their work outside, and in the joy of youth, they entered into merry contests, sometimes individually, sometimes row against row, competing to place a given number of pins in the shortest time. And ever and anon, their voices joined in the numberless ‘tells’:
‘Needle pin, needle pin, stitch upon stitch,
Work the old lady out of the ditch.
If she is not out as soon as I
A rap on the knuckles shall come by and by,
A horse to carry my lady about —
Must not look off till 20 are out.’
Then they all counted twenty pins, and if anyone looked up before he or she had done, the others shouted:
‘Hang her up for half an hour;
Cut her down just like a flower.’
The offender would hastily put in the final pins and retort:
‘I won’t be hung up for half an hour,
I won’t be cut down like a flower.’
What times they had on ‘Tanders’, St. Andrews Day, November 30th, which was the lace-makers’ holiday, for St. Andrew was regarded as their patron Saint. On that day people met in ‘one another’s housen’, and partook of ‘no-candy’, framenty [sic] (wheat boiled in milk and flavoured with spice), and hot, spiced metheglin, made from washing the honeycomb. Even the lace mistress became genial and bade them invite their friends to join the merrimaking at the school. In the height of the fun she would come in with a fire pot of metheglin held high in either hand, crying ‘Tan, my boys, Tan!’ When she left the room to get more, they would lock her out, and sung as she shook the door in pretended wrath:
‘Pardon mistress, pardon master,
Pardon for a pin!
If you won’t give us a holiday
We won’t let you in!’
Then the fiddles struck up, and the boys and girls danced round the candle-block, singing:
‘Jack, be nimble, Jack, be quick,
Jack, jump over the candlestick.’
inserting the name of every boy and girl in turn. Whoever was named must essay the jump over the lighted candle and all.!
The blades were removed from the bobbin winder, and suspended by a cord from one of the beams. On the pins of the blade were stuck pieces of apple and candle alternately. The young folk, blindfolded in turn, essayed to bite the apple, and, to the merriment of the spectators, often bit the candle.
Catterns, St. Catherine’s day, was another festival. The bellman went round before daybreak, calling:
Rise, maids, rise,
Bake your Cattern pies;
Bake enough and bake no waste
And let the bellman have a taste.’
The lace-makers worked hard to finish work by noon, and then ‘wet’ the candle-stool, as they said, by taking tea together with Cattern cakes. After dancing to the fiddle, they supped on apple pie, ginger-bread, ‘wigs’ flavoured with caraway seed, and drank warm beer, spiced and mixed with rum and beaten eggs.
On Shrove Tuesday, the Parish Clerk rang the ‘Pancake Bell’ at eleven, and the women ran out of their cottages, striving to be first to offer him a pancake fresh from the pan.
Village history wove itself into the tells. There was one Lydia learnt from her great aunt of a girl whose faithless love, ‘the Fox’, enticed her to meet him in the wood at night, and with an accomplice designed to murder and bury her there.
19 miles as I sat high,
Looking for one, and two passed by;
I saw them that never saw me —
I saw the lantern tied to a tree.
The boughs did bend and the leaves did shake;
I saw the hole the Fox did make.
The Fox did look, the Fox did see
I saw the hole to bury me.’
Folk songs they call such ditties, viewing them as remote and strange, but old Lydia knows they are not mere phantasy; behind each one there lies a poignant human history. There was a tragic, true story, sung, in a lace tell, about the neighbouring villages in her girlhood, which well she knows, but never sings; it touches her too nearly. Because of that story, the pretty bone bobbins lie idle in their box and Lydia Arkwright is a spinster yet.
Lace makers ply their lovely craft in Bucks, Beds, Northants and Huntingdon. The fine old patterns, which once fell into disuse, have been revived, above all those of the exquisite Bucks Point, the acorn, the tulip, the carnation, wedding bells, and running river, which age can never stale. At Olney, the Bucks cottage lace-makers work on the pillow as they did in the days of Katharine of Arragon, who is said to have introduced the industry. A postcard to Mrs Armstrong of the Bucks Cottage Workers’ Association, Olney, will bring particulars to hand.
 This project is discussed on http://www.sylviapankhurst.com/sylvia_the_artist/women_workers_of_england_project.php
 E. Sylvia Pankhurst, The Suffragette Movement: An Intimate Account of Persons and Ideas (London: Longmans, Green & Co., 1931), pp. 178-9. Hobhouse returned to South Africa in 1905 under the auspices of the Boer Home Industries and Aid Society to set up classes in spinning and other female domestic manufacture: perhaps lace was meant to be part of this programme.
 IISH, Estella Sylvia Pankhurst Papers, box 164: https://search.socialhistory.org/Record/ARCH01029/ArchiveContentList#293
 On Harry Armstrong and the Bucks Cottage Workers Association see http://www.mkheritage.org.uk/odhs/full-list-of-elizabeth-knights-articles/my-introduction-to-the-lacemaking-pages/harry-armstrong-and-the-bucks-cottage-workers-agency/